Well, let me try this again. I accidentally did not save the page I had already written so I have to start from scratch. I guess that is the worst thing that can happen to a writer.
So I have had several adventures lately. I decided to make the best of my last free week in Argentina, and went out solo to explore the northern part of the country. I started out by taking the midnight bus from Córdoba to Tucumàn, a province in the northern part of Argentina. Traveling is great here, you can take a bus overnight, save on hotel fare, and have a nice comfortable chair that reclines very far, almost like a bed.
I arrived at my destination at around 8 in the morning, and walked around until I found a hotel. I stayed at the hotel Petite, which was kind of a dive, but for 22 pesos what can you expect! Well, the point of exploring a new city is not to stay in the crummy little hotel, so I spent as little time as possible in it and walked around all day. I went to the Museo del Folklore, Casa de Obispo Colombes, was given a free tour of the Plaza Independencia, and saw some live folklore music while eating lunch.
Later that night, I went out with some people I met in my hotel. Billy from Chicago, and Luke and Maggie from Whales. We saw the Espectaculo de Luz y Sonido, which explained the history of Argentina’s independence. Tucuman is actually the city where the declaration was signed, so it is very interesting historically speaking. The show was amazing (not really) as lights would flash from one side to the other, while an all audio play sounded from a loudspeaker from where the lights were flashing. Afterwards, things livened up a little bit and we hung out on the plaza, where a live band was playing and everyone was dancing. Then we went to eat, and saw some more live music and dancing. We could definitely feel the love in this great little city.
The next day, Billy decided to accompany me to Tafí del Valle, where we hung out in our 15 peso a night hostel, relaxing by the fire. We met some cool people from all over Argentina, and went out that night with a couple of Porteñas, who were very nice and pretty!!! Of course the main event there was also folklore music and dancing. We saw an even better show than the night before, as all of the gauchos came out in their traditional clothing and danced the night away. There were even a little boy and girl all dressed up that came out and were the stars for a couple of songs. The night ended with a kind of freestyle tap-dancing/break-dancing competition which was very awesome to see.
The next day I went on a pretty bodacious hike up to a waterfall. Scaling about 3000 feet in a single mile, we found a beautiful waterfall that was completely frozen over. The water flowing underneath sounded very cool, as it had great acoustic sound effects. My faithful guide, Matias, also explained about the history of Tafí along with the nature. Very interesting.
Yesterday I started to make my way back to Cordoba, but this was a challenge. From Tafí there are no direct buses, so I went to Tucuman to connect. However everything was all sold out, as vacations were ending. So I went to the next closest town in hopes of finding a ticket from there. When I arrived in Santiago del Estero, there was nothing from there either. Everything was all sold out through Tuesday, presenting me with a large problem, as today I had orientation. I was just about to start hitchhiking when someone from one of the bus companies informed me that someone had cancelled, so I lucked out and got the fare. Even when I was standing there, someone came to the counter to ask for a ticket to Córdoba, and they were told it was all sold out.
I had to kill sometime before the bus left, so I went down to Plaza Libertad. Santiago, Argentina’s oldest city, just so happened to be celebrating its 452nd birthday, which occurs every 25th of July. There was live music and even fireworks, and the place was packed.
I finally got on my bus and arrived this morning at 7. Took a much needed nap and had orientation today. Met the other students, and went out for a bit tonight. It is going to be a fun semester, and I will leave it at that. Hasta Luego!
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
Monday, July 18, 2005
Journal Entry #18
I am here in Córdoba now, situated in my new house where I will reside for the next 6 months or so of my life. I am living in a rather large argentine house with quite a few people. The alma de casa (house maker) is Elda Noriega. With her live her daughter, Analina, her son, Rafael, another girl named Susana, and another person that I have not yet met. My room is great; very large with a bed, armoire, little desk, and a book shelf to name a few of the items. And for Argentina, man is it spacious. Hell, it is pretty spacious for anywhere! The room is a little cold at night, as there is no heater, so I went out and bought a hat to wear at night a little while ago. Now I am set!
Well, in my last entry, I mentioned that I had a few miserable days in Buenos Aires. This of course indicates a doctor’s visit, would you expect anything less? As usual, I had to see a doctor while traveling, but it was not that serious. Just a little case of food poisoning, no big deal. Yup, I spent the night in the bathroom, hanging out by the toilet, and in the morning, when we were supposed to fly to Córdoba, I had a doctor pay me a visit at the hotel. I never knew it, but apparently, large hotels can have a doctor come to you. I was a lot more expensive than if I had gone to see the doctor, but as long as I was with my mom, and she is paying the bills, why not?Anyways, it was nothing serious, and after a few pills and a couple days worth of rest, I am all better.
I flew in to Córdoba last night without any problems, and have had a good day. I ate breakfast with Elda and Susana, and got to know them a little bit. Elda has two of her children living with her, and a couple of others nearby. Susana is from La Pampa, a province just south of here. She works in a bookstore for businesses.
Afterwards, went to use the internet at the “shopping” (Argentine word for mall) and came back for lunch. Ate chicken, squash, and carrots, and then I was off again. First I walked down to SET Idiomas, the school in which I studied during the month of January, when I came to Córdoba for winter term through Eckerd. After seeing a couple of the teachers and Matias, and meeting some of the new students, I went to go see Zulema and Nino, the family with whom I lived in January. I wish that I could have lived with them again, but now they will have students that are coming soon. Oh well, the new family seems very nice. It was great to see Zulema and Nino. It seems nothing has changed, they are looking good. Zulema is a great lady with a great sense of humor, we used to laugh a lot when Marc and I were living there. And Nino, large and mafioso, still sleeps all day and stays up all night watching television! And I still cannot understand anything that he says! While I was there I met Vincent, a student that just finished up a semester at the Universidad Catolica. From San Jose, California, he seemed like a nice guy, but is leaving soon so I will not get to know him. We all sat around and drank matè, which is a long-standing argentine tradition.
Came back to the shack tonight after picking up some laundry that I had dropped off earlier right around the corner. For 10 pesos, or just over 3 bucks, they wash, dry, iron, and fold your clothes for you, and if you drop it off early enough, it is ready later on that day. What a great deal! Then I did some shopping at the “shopping”, and came back for dinner. I ate with everyone. Analina is studying to become a doctor, and Rafael is an electrician. Elda’s children all talk way to fast, with a very light voice (almost as if they were talking under their breath), and with a very strange accent, so it is hard for me to understand them. I think they are a little strange too, but all very nice. I am sure they think that I am very strange too!!
That about sums it up, so I will say good night for now.
Well, in my last entry, I mentioned that I had a few miserable days in Buenos Aires. This of course indicates a doctor’s visit, would you expect anything less? As usual, I had to see a doctor while traveling, but it was not that serious. Just a little case of food poisoning, no big deal. Yup, I spent the night in the bathroom, hanging out by the toilet, and in the morning, when we were supposed to fly to Córdoba, I had a doctor pay me a visit at the hotel. I never knew it, but apparently, large hotels can have a doctor come to you. I was a lot more expensive than if I had gone to see the doctor, but as long as I was with my mom, and she is paying the bills, why not?Anyways, it was nothing serious, and after a few pills and a couple days worth of rest, I am all better.
I flew in to Córdoba last night without any problems, and have had a good day. I ate breakfast with Elda and Susana, and got to know them a little bit. Elda has two of her children living with her, and a couple of others nearby. Susana is from La Pampa, a province just south of here. She works in a bookstore for businesses.
Afterwards, went to use the internet at the “shopping” (Argentine word for mall) and came back for lunch. Ate chicken, squash, and carrots, and then I was off again. First I walked down to SET Idiomas, the school in which I studied during the month of January, when I came to Córdoba for winter term through Eckerd. After seeing a couple of the teachers and Matias, and meeting some of the new students, I went to go see Zulema and Nino, the family with whom I lived in January. I wish that I could have lived with them again, but now they will have students that are coming soon. Oh well, the new family seems very nice. It was great to see Zulema and Nino. It seems nothing has changed, they are looking good. Zulema is a great lady with a great sense of humor, we used to laugh a lot when Marc and I were living there. And Nino, large and mafioso, still sleeps all day and stays up all night watching television! And I still cannot understand anything that he says! While I was there I met Vincent, a student that just finished up a semester at the Universidad Catolica. From San Jose, California, he seemed like a nice guy, but is leaving soon so I will not get to know him. We all sat around and drank matè, which is a long-standing argentine tradition.
Came back to the shack tonight after picking up some laundry that I had dropped off earlier right around the corner. For 10 pesos, or just over 3 bucks, they wash, dry, iron, and fold your clothes for you, and if you drop it off early enough, it is ready later on that day. What a great deal! Then I did some shopping at the “shopping”, and came back for dinner. I ate with everyone. Analina is studying to become a doctor, and Rafael is an electrician. Elda’s children all talk way to fast, with a very light voice (almost as if they were talking under their breath), and with a very strange accent, so it is hard for me to understand them. I think they are a little strange too, but all very nice. I am sure they think that I am very strange too!!
That about sums it up, so I will say good night for now.
Sunday, July 17, 2005
Journal Entry #17
I find myself tonight miles above the ground, flying across the clouds on one of Aerolineas Argentinas’ Boeing 737 jets, headed from Buenos Aires to Córdoba. I have spent the last few days, some good, and some absolutely miserable in the capital city of Argentina. But before I get into that I would like to recount a story that was experianced earlier in the trip.
Road Ragin’ with the Taxi Cabs
In July of 2005, I went to Argentina to study for a semester in Córdoba, the country's second largest city of approximately two million people. Before the semester began, my mom decided to travel with me for a couple of weeks, using me as a guide to experiance a new country to which she would have never gone. As I am learning Spanish, I agreed that it would be a great way to practice translating. So we came down, with our first destination, Buenos Aires. Several days after our arrival to the capital of Argentina, my mom and I went to do some sightseeing and further explore the city. We began in El Centro, the downtown area of Buenos Aires. We saw sights such as La Casa Rosada (the president’s house), ventured down La Florida (an endless pedestrian street lined with shops), and stopped for coffee at the most historic of the Cafes, Café Tortoni. Finding ourselves in the most central of the city’s many plazas, Plaza De Mayo, we decided to hail down a cab. From there we were going to Recoleta, a close-by barrio (neighborhood).
Unaware that my mom was also trying to get the attention of a taxi driver, I began flailing my arms in the air, and with immediate success. I turned around to grab my mom, but she had stopped a cab as well, which would soon put us into quite the uncomfortable predicament.
Not thinking that it would be a big deal, I told her to forget about it, and we got into the cab I had hailed down. I told the driver of our destination; however the other car, which had stopped just in front of ours, continued to stay put. I knew immediately that we were going to have a story to tell.
Our chauffeur began to honk his horn, and the other just sat there in his place, shaking his head. After a few more seconds of this, our driver had enough, and decided to bust a move around his detainee. Although he tried, his attempts were futile, as the other man quickly pulled out in front of us, causing us to come to a halt . I told our driver, in my broken Spanish “Para! Para! Bajamos acà! (Stop! Stop! We are getting out!)”; but he did not stop! Instead, he made another break for it, trying to weave through the traffic on this busy downtown street. Again he was forced to a halt by his competition, as the other driver began veering into our side, nearly colliding with us. The renegade driver then began to roll down his window, still shaking his head and started shouting at the top of his lungs in castellano (Argentine Spanish) at our driver.
So after having narrowly avoided several accidents with other cars and experiencing the road-rage of the porteños (people from Buenos Aires), I grabbed my mom and we got out! After running across the street, we made it to the sidewalk and watched the chaos. The two little boys, trapped in bodies of grown men, continued yelling at each other for another five minutes or so. Just when I expected one of them to jump out and start bludgeoning the other, they both angrily drove off in opposite directions. My mom and I, shocked at what had just happened, decided to look for a new cab. This time, however, with more precaution, and we vowed to never to make the mistake of hailing down two taxis at the same time in this city again.
Well, my plane is landing, so I will talk to you later. Chua!!!
Road Ragin’ with the Taxi Cabs
In July of 2005, I went to Argentina to study for a semester in Córdoba, the country's second largest city of approximately two million people. Before the semester began, my mom decided to travel with me for a couple of weeks, using me as a guide to experiance a new country to which she would have never gone. As I am learning Spanish, I agreed that it would be a great way to practice translating. So we came down, with our first destination, Buenos Aires. Several days after our arrival to the capital of Argentina, my mom and I went to do some sightseeing and further explore the city. We began in El Centro, the downtown area of Buenos Aires. We saw sights such as La Casa Rosada (the president’s house), ventured down La Florida (an endless pedestrian street lined with shops), and stopped for coffee at the most historic of the Cafes, Café Tortoni. Finding ourselves in the most central of the city’s many plazas, Plaza De Mayo, we decided to hail down a cab. From there we were going to Recoleta, a close-by barrio (neighborhood).
Unaware that my mom was also trying to get the attention of a taxi driver, I began flailing my arms in the air, and with immediate success. I turned around to grab my mom, but she had stopped a cab as well, which would soon put us into quite the uncomfortable predicament.
Not thinking that it would be a big deal, I told her to forget about it, and we got into the cab I had hailed down. I told the driver of our destination; however the other car, which had stopped just in front of ours, continued to stay put. I knew immediately that we were going to have a story to tell.
Our chauffeur began to honk his horn, and the other just sat there in his place, shaking his head. After a few more seconds of this, our driver had enough, and decided to bust a move around his detainee. Although he tried, his attempts were futile, as the other man quickly pulled out in front of us, causing us to come to a halt . I told our driver, in my broken Spanish “Para! Para! Bajamos acà! (Stop! Stop! We are getting out!)”; but he did not stop! Instead, he made another break for it, trying to weave through the traffic on this busy downtown street. Again he was forced to a halt by his competition, as the other driver began veering into our side, nearly colliding with us. The renegade driver then began to roll down his window, still shaking his head and started shouting at the top of his lungs in castellano (Argentine Spanish) at our driver.
So after having narrowly avoided several accidents with other cars and experiencing the road-rage of the porteños (people from Buenos Aires), I grabbed my mom and we got out! After running across the street, we made it to the sidewalk and watched the chaos. The two little boys, trapped in bodies of grown men, continued yelling at each other for another five minutes or so. Just when I expected one of them to jump out and start bludgeoning the other, they both angrily drove off in opposite directions. My mom and I, shocked at what had just happened, decided to look for a new cab. This time, however, with more precaution, and we vowed to never to make the mistake of hailing down two taxis at the same time in this city again.
Well, my plane is landing, so I will talk to you later. Chua!!!
Thursday, July 14, 2005
Journal Entry #16
Back in BA. I have decided to include some quotes of some horrible English translations I have found in this city, so here goes:
--- “Perhaps the greatest pleasure to be found each morning in this city of polluted airs which is ironically named after good ones is the color of its dawn”
--- “Of course, there are the museums, and the walks, and the walks, and the park, and the secret places that every person has a preference for in all cities. Buenos Aires has them too, and without doubt an abundance. The nearly 1,000 pages of Buenos Aires Secret City (Buenos Aires Ciudad Secreta), of which the Sudamericana publishing house printed the third big fat edition in 2004, shortly before the death in September of its author, the well liked writer and journalist Germinal Noguès, have a wealth of historical secrets that belong to the walls and the doors of corners and buildings in the capital."
Theses come from: The Golden Book Buenos Aires, a guide book to be found in every major hotel.
We arrived and made reservations at the NH Jousten, where we stayed for just a couple of nights upon our arrival. This hotel was adequate at best and definitely not worth the money, so we soon decided to change hotels, for the 6th change this trip. It is not so easy trying to explore new cities in new cultures, especially when you do not speak the language perfectly.
One afternoon, a couple of days ago, we took a stroll around downtown to do some sightseeing. We saw the the Casa Rosada (presidential House), the monument to Juan de Garay (the founder of Buenos Aires), and a monument to Christopher Columbus, among others. Afterwards, we met with a contact of my mother, who is a commissioner of some sort and oversees some high-ranking financial institutions in Argentina. He gave us a tour of the Argentina stock exchange and treated us to lunch, all of which was very interesting and pleasant. For instance, the stock exchange and the stock market are two separate organization here, unique in the financial world.
Emilio, my mom´s friend, recommended that we eat at a restaurant called La Caballeriza, which turned out to be an excellent recommendation. This restaurant, modeled after an old horse stable, makes a great piece of beef, and has a fun casual atmosphere. We both had couple of fat slabs of meat, cooked al punto(medium rare), drank some delicious Argentina Malbec, and enjoyed ourselves immensely. Afterwards, at the recommendation of the front-deskman of our hotel, we went to another hotel for a night cap. The Faena Hotel surprised us when we arrived, as we were greeted by a few men dressed in all black wearing earpieces who directed us where to go. We ended up at El Living, a very high-class bar. It was a very strange and comical situation. A very pretty girl greeted my mother and me and informed us that the bar was too full (even though I could see plenty of places to be seated), and that it would have something available in about 15 minutes. She recommended that we walk around the hotel in the meantime, exploring the remainder of the facilities. It was dimly lit and seemed very posh, so I was expecting to see a nice lobby with other features, yet after walking down a very short corridor and past another very expensive-looking restaurant, we came to a dead end. After only about two minutes, I walked back, and very disappointedly asked “¿Hay algo mas para ver?” (Is there anything else to see)? She responded that we should be seated in the hall way and continue waiting, to which I responded by rolling my eyes and walking off. Miraculously, something opened up before I could take two steps and we were allowed in. Laughing at the situation, we discussed how funny the events were and how we had stumbled across this eloquent little bar. Around us, big, fat, and obviously rich Argentine men puffed cigars, and deer’s heads lined the walls.
Today we changed hotels to the Hilton, located in the modern Puerto Madero, and have been very pleased thus far. In the same price range as every other hotel at which we have stayed, it is far better. We decided to have a lazy day and enjoy the hotel, use the gym, and walk around the neighborhood a little bit. This is the most modern looking neighborhood in Buenos Aires, with great views of the city, the docks, and a famous bridge, La Puente de la Mujer.
For dinner, we went back to the pizza joint in El Centro called Güerrin. Afterwards, we took a stroll down Corrientes, which is like the Broadway of Buenos Aires, where theaters are abundant. Next, we stumbled upon the Spell Café in Puerto Madero to have a little dessert and wine. The service here was great (maybe because the all female staff wearing the little black miniskirt and tank-top uniform looked great!!!) and the atmosphere was good. Dimly lit, upscale yet casual, this place also had nice views of the bridge, which was illuminated with green lights at night.
Now I am going to bed, so Buenos Noches de Buenos Aires!!!
--- “Perhaps the greatest pleasure to be found each morning in this city of polluted airs which is ironically named after good ones is the color of its dawn”
--- “Of course, there are the museums, and the walks, and the walks, and the park, and the secret places that every person has a preference for in all cities. Buenos Aires has them too, and without doubt an abundance. The nearly 1,000 pages of Buenos Aires Secret City (Buenos Aires Ciudad Secreta), of which the Sudamericana publishing house printed the third big fat edition in 2004, shortly before the death in September of its author, the well liked writer and journalist Germinal Noguès, have a wealth of historical secrets that belong to the walls and the doors of corners and buildings in the capital."
Theses come from: The Golden Book Buenos Aires, a guide book to be found in every major hotel.
We arrived and made reservations at the NH Jousten, where we stayed for just a couple of nights upon our arrival. This hotel was adequate at best and definitely not worth the money, so we soon decided to change hotels, for the 6th change this trip. It is not so easy trying to explore new cities in new cultures, especially when you do not speak the language perfectly.
One afternoon, a couple of days ago, we took a stroll around downtown to do some sightseeing. We saw the the Casa Rosada (presidential House), the monument to Juan de Garay (the founder of Buenos Aires), and a monument to Christopher Columbus, among others. Afterwards, we met with a contact of my mother, who is a commissioner of some sort and oversees some high-ranking financial institutions in Argentina. He gave us a tour of the Argentina stock exchange and treated us to lunch, all of which was very interesting and pleasant. For instance, the stock exchange and the stock market are two separate organization here, unique in the financial world.
Emilio, my mom´s friend, recommended that we eat at a restaurant called La Caballeriza, which turned out to be an excellent recommendation. This restaurant, modeled after an old horse stable, makes a great piece of beef, and has a fun casual atmosphere. We both had couple of fat slabs of meat, cooked al punto(medium rare), drank some delicious Argentina Malbec, and enjoyed ourselves immensely. Afterwards, at the recommendation of the front-deskman of our hotel, we went to another hotel for a night cap. The Faena Hotel surprised us when we arrived, as we were greeted by a few men dressed in all black wearing earpieces who directed us where to go. We ended up at El Living, a very high-class bar. It was a very strange and comical situation. A very pretty girl greeted my mother and me and informed us that the bar was too full (even though I could see plenty of places to be seated), and that it would have something available in about 15 minutes. She recommended that we walk around the hotel in the meantime, exploring the remainder of the facilities. It was dimly lit and seemed very posh, so I was expecting to see a nice lobby with other features, yet after walking down a very short corridor and past another very expensive-looking restaurant, we came to a dead end. After only about two minutes, I walked back, and very disappointedly asked “¿Hay algo mas para ver?” (Is there anything else to see)? She responded that we should be seated in the hall way and continue waiting, to which I responded by rolling my eyes and walking off. Miraculously, something opened up before I could take two steps and we were allowed in. Laughing at the situation, we discussed how funny the events were and how we had stumbled across this eloquent little bar. Around us, big, fat, and obviously rich Argentine men puffed cigars, and deer’s heads lined the walls.
Today we changed hotels to the Hilton, located in the modern Puerto Madero, and have been very pleased thus far. In the same price range as every other hotel at which we have stayed, it is far better. We decided to have a lazy day and enjoy the hotel, use the gym, and walk around the neighborhood a little bit. This is the most modern looking neighborhood in Buenos Aires, with great views of the city, the docks, and a famous bridge, La Puente de la Mujer.
For dinner, we went back to the pizza joint in El Centro called Güerrin. Afterwards, we took a stroll down Corrientes, which is like the Broadway of Buenos Aires, where theaters are abundant. Next, we stumbled upon the Spell Café in Puerto Madero to have a little dessert and wine. The service here was great (maybe because the all female staff wearing the little black miniskirt and tank-top uniform looked great!!!) and the atmosphere was good. Dimly lit, upscale yet casual, this place also had nice views of the bridge, which was illuminated with green lights at night.
Now I am going to bed, so Buenos Noches de Buenos Aires!!!
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Journal Entry #15
Bariloche, a gem in the rough. We arrived here several days ago, for some peace, relaxation, and of course, some snow action. Our reservations were for a hotel/resort about 24 kilometers outside of Bariloche in the next village Tunquelèn. The name of the hotel, "Bariloche, means the place of rest in the native Mapuche tongue. Sitting on some 20 acres of land, this Hotel has spectacular views of the "Nahuel Huapi lake, one of the largest and deepest in the world, with snow-capped peaks jutting up on all sides. This is a great hotel, winning my mom’s seal of approval. The staff is great, with activity coordinators (baqueanos) giving advice on what to do in the area, including some free nature hikes. The first night we dined in house at the hotel’s fabulous restaurant, where the vegetables come from the garden on the premises, the bread is handmade everyday, and the trout is caught locally. That night I learned that bottles of Argentine wine, sporting the initials D.O.C. have been certified as quality bottles, so that is my Argentine wine tip of the day! The several bottles of D.O.C. have all been excellent (not that the others have not) and are very recommendable.
The next day, I went snow-boarding at Cerro Catedral, the largest ski resort in South America. Apparently, I had just missed the best snow of the season, which a few of the locals informed me comes early in the season, in June. So not everything was open, about which the resort’s own website lied, but I still had a great time. A day’s rental of snow-board equipment cost me 70 pesos, and a 3 day pass about 240 pesos, and this was the high price season. I can imagine that this resort would be amazing on a day of fresh powder, with the majority of the runs being in these wide open bowls, from which you have spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The funny thing about this resort, though, is that they have rope tows at the top, which you would never find in the states. Also, most of the green runs are on narrow switchbacks that are not very fun, often going uphill. This maybe different during June when the slopes are supposedly full of snow. While we were there, the base was completely green, and you even had to take the lift back down at the end of the day. Overall, this is a great place for the advanced skier that can take full advantage of the more challenging terrain.
We did that for a couple of days, and then spent the last two relaxing. Mariano, one of the Vacaneros, took us on a nature walk through the national park on Sunday afternoon. He talked to us about the local wildlife, such as the caña cohihue (a type of bamboo), coihue (a native tree that is very large with wide spreading roots), arrayan ( cinnamon colored wood) quintral (a parasite that grows off of other trees, producing a beautiful flower), llao llao (a bland tasting, ball shaped fungus growing in the trees, which the indigenous used to eat), barba del diablo (a green stringy moss growing off of the trees, which can be used to measure the air quality), and the pehuen (also called araucaria, a type of tree typical of northern Patagonia with needles growing covering even the trunk, that grows in a cup shape upwards and produces a nut that can be used in breads or eaten alone). We also learned that Patagonia, the southern region of Argentina and Chile, has some of the most ancient species of trees in the world, and other unique ecosystems and rainforest that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
Yesterday, we caught the 20 bus into Bariloche for some hot chocolate, which it is famous for and rightly so, some shopping, and some more spectacular views of the lake. We had the hot chocolate at Chuela Joy on Quaglia 221, bought some sweat pants at TMT, an argentine clothing company on Moreno 55, and lunch at Friends, which I would not recommend. They have horrible soup, and I felt a little dodgy in the stomach area afterwards. Bariloche is a very quaint little town of 120,000, so I guess it is more of a city. The Argentine people are very proud of this place, and almost everyone I have met here has recommended it, and I see why. The architecture is just as one might expect, with cozy little log cabins lining the road from Llao Llao, and the construction medium of choice, the local wood, which is now protected and on an endangered species list. Despite its large size, this city still has a cozy feel to it, and truly does have some of the best chocolate in the world. We bought some chocolate as a gift for my new host family from a chocolate factory called La Turista, which has several locations in town. The one to which we went was enormous, and sells much more than just chocolate, such as local micro brews of beer, jelly, meat, just to name a few.
We came back to the hotel and I sat in the sauna for a while, cleansing the toxins out of my body. I finished off the therapy with Sylvia, who gave me quite possibly the best massage in the world. My neck and back pains have gone down immensely, and I practically no longer have any pain in my right shoulder, which has been giving me immense pains lately.
I finished off the night by having some of the local beers in the bar downstairs. A company named Blest makes very tasty cervezas in a variety of flavors. I had a blonde, a dark, and a raspberry, all delicious.
It has been a very enjoyable week here, and as I sit here waiting for the airport transport, staring out the window, across the lake at the snow-capped peak, I am comforted by the fact that I know I will be back, next time in the summer to do the abundance of outdoor sports, such as camping and trekking. Hasta Luego....
The next day, I went snow-boarding at Cerro Catedral, the largest ski resort in South America. Apparently, I had just missed the best snow of the season, which a few of the locals informed me comes early in the season, in June. So not everything was open, about which the resort’s own website lied, but I still had a great time. A day’s rental of snow-board equipment cost me 70 pesos, and a 3 day pass about 240 pesos, and this was the high price season. I can imagine that this resort would be amazing on a day of fresh powder, with the majority of the runs being in these wide open bowls, from which you have spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The funny thing about this resort, though, is that they have rope tows at the top, which you would never find in the states. Also, most of the green runs are on narrow switchbacks that are not very fun, often going uphill. This maybe different during June when the slopes are supposedly full of snow. While we were there, the base was completely green, and you even had to take the lift back down at the end of the day. Overall, this is a great place for the advanced skier that can take full advantage of the more challenging terrain.
We did that for a couple of days, and then spent the last two relaxing. Mariano, one of the Vacaneros, took us on a nature walk through the national park on Sunday afternoon. He talked to us about the local wildlife, such as the caña cohihue (a type of bamboo), coihue (a native tree that is very large with wide spreading roots), arrayan ( cinnamon colored wood) quintral (a parasite that grows off of other trees, producing a beautiful flower), llao llao (a bland tasting, ball shaped fungus growing in the trees, which the indigenous used to eat), barba del diablo (a green stringy moss growing off of the trees, which can be used to measure the air quality), and the pehuen (also called araucaria, a type of tree typical of northern Patagonia with needles growing covering even the trunk, that grows in a cup shape upwards and produces a nut that can be used in breads or eaten alone). We also learned that Patagonia, the southern region of Argentina and Chile, has some of the most ancient species of trees in the world, and other unique ecosystems and rainforest that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
Yesterday, we caught the 20 bus into Bariloche for some hot chocolate, which it is famous for and rightly so, some shopping, and some more spectacular views of the lake. We had the hot chocolate at Chuela Joy on Quaglia 221, bought some sweat pants at TMT, an argentine clothing company on Moreno 55, and lunch at Friends, which I would not recommend. They have horrible soup, and I felt a little dodgy in the stomach area afterwards. Bariloche is a very quaint little town of 120,000, so I guess it is more of a city. The Argentine people are very proud of this place, and almost everyone I have met here has recommended it, and I see why. The architecture is just as one might expect, with cozy little log cabins lining the road from Llao Llao, and the construction medium of choice, the local wood, which is now protected and on an endangered species list. Despite its large size, this city still has a cozy feel to it, and truly does have some of the best chocolate in the world. We bought some chocolate as a gift for my new host family from a chocolate factory called La Turista, which has several locations in town. The one to which we went was enormous, and sells much more than just chocolate, such as local micro brews of beer, jelly, meat, just to name a few.
We came back to the hotel and I sat in the sauna for a while, cleansing the toxins out of my body. I finished off the therapy with Sylvia, who gave me quite possibly the best massage in the world. My neck and back pains have gone down immensely, and I practically no longer have any pain in my right shoulder, which has been giving me immense pains lately.
I finished off the night by having some of the local beers in the bar downstairs. A company named Blest makes very tasty cervezas in a variety of flavors. I had a blonde, a dark, and a raspberry, all delicious.
It has been a very enjoyable week here, and as I sit here waiting for the airport transport, staring out the window, across the lake at the snow-capped peak, I am comforted by the fact that I know I will be back, next time in the summer to do the abundance of outdoor sports, such as camping and trekking. Hasta Luego....
Wednesday, July 06, 2005
Journal Entry #14
Finally, the principal goal of the summer has been accomplished. I am now here in Buenos Aires, the capitol of Argentina. I arrived in Córdoba a couple of days ago, accompanied by my mom, and we have since traveled to Buenos Aires. Upon our arrival at the airport in Córdoba, there was a counter within the airport offering the services of a remis, or a slightly more expensive and upscale version of a taxi, for 19 pesos into the city, which we gladly accepted (we returned to the airport later by taking a taxi for only 10 pesos, I am not sure if the remis is the only option other than the bus or if you can wait for a taxi at the airport). We stayed at the Sheraton Hotel, which claims to be a 5 star hotel. Not meeting my mother’s approval, we toured the city in search of a better hotel, but could not find one. The Sheraton, which may have the modern infrastructure (such as wi-fi internet accessibility), the facilities (such as a pool and gym), and the service of five stars, certainly lacks the upkeep. The carpets are stained, the walls need paint, and the bathroom in the room in which we stayed needed a new bathtub (it had unsightly cracks in it). Unfortunatly, we could not find a nicer hotel, and altered our plans to come to Buenos Aires early. So we booked a hotel at the Intercontinental for the following night, located in downtown BA.
The next day, we went directly to the airport and purchased airplane tickets twenty minutes before departure time for about 80 bucks with Aerolineas Argentinas. What a great deal, and without all the hassle of the US airports. Arriving in BA (at the local domestic Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport) about an hour later, we went to the taxi stand outside, and for less than 15 pesos arrived at our hotel. A 5 star hotel for 149 dollars a night, the lobby was beautiful. However, we once again were left dissatisfied. As a government employee, my mom should have received a discount of about $50. We were told that because we booked this room on the internet, we could not have our rate reduced to the government discount. PEOPLE, LETS TALK CUSTOMER SERVICE!!! This hotel lost about $1000 because of this move. We decided to change hotels because of this maltreatment. I am sorry, but when you tell someone that the rate that you should get is $50 less than the rate than you are getting, and there is nothing that you can do to change this, you lose out big time. Not to mention the carpets were stained in the actual room.
We changed to the Loi SuiteS Recoleta Hotel across town. Slightly more expensive, the rooms are clean, have comfortable beds, and only allow slight traffic noises to enter. Plus the manager gave us a personal tour of the entire hotel in English. So after getting settled in, we went out for a snack at a place that specializes in empanadas and pizzas, which were both excellent. From there, we went to the close-by Recoleta Cemetery, and payed our dues to the famous and wealthy Argentine elite of the past. This cemetery is made up of ex-presidents, doctors, and many military generals, to name a few.
Last night we witnessed Señor Tango, a highly overpriced and overrated Tango show. For 190 pesos each, we were served overcooked cuts of what could have been the tastiest beef ever, given absolutely horrible service, and saw the tackiest, most overdone show ever. I can say in defense of Señor Tango that the dancing, music, and singing were excellent.
Today, we decided to make reservations for Bariloche. We used a travel agent called Patagonia Travel, which realizing that they could not “sell us”, offered us the real deal. So four hours later (I have no idea how things like this work here, but everytime I have been to a travel agent here, it has been an all day process. If anyone has any recommendations, please tell me!!!) we received our vouchers for airline travel, transport, and hotel.
Tonight, we dined at the best restaurant that I have quite possibly been to in Argentina. For 105 pesos, or about $35 US, this Italian joint in Palermo (Repùblica Arabe Siria 3285), with its romantic, dimly lit atmosphere, had excellent cuisine. For this small price, the two of us drank a bottle of Malbec D.O.C, a 2002 bottle made by the Bodega Norton, each ate delicious pasta dinners, split a salad and dessert, and topped it off with a porto desert wine. Not only was this restaurant very well priced, but we had some of the best service I have received in the three times I have been to Argentina.
Now we are awaiting the morning dawn, when we will further explore this Latin country, and make our way south to the highly acclaimed San Carlos de Bariloche and the snowy ski slopes of Cerro Catedral. Buenas Noches!
The next day, we went directly to the airport and purchased airplane tickets twenty minutes before departure time for about 80 bucks with Aerolineas Argentinas. What a great deal, and without all the hassle of the US airports. Arriving in BA (at the local domestic Aeroparque Jorge Newbery airport) about an hour later, we went to the taxi stand outside, and for less than 15 pesos arrived at our hotel. A 5 star hotel for 149 dollars a night, the lobby was beautiful. However, we once again were left dissatisfied. As a government employee, my mom should have received a discount of about $50. We were told that because we booked this room on the internet, we could not have our rate reduced to the government discount. PEOPLE, LETS TALK CUSTOMER SERVICE!!! This hotel lost about $1000 because of this move. We decided to change hotels because of this maltreatment. I am sorry, but when you tell someone that the rate that you should get is $50 less than the rate than you are getting, and there is nothing that you can do to change this, you lose out big time. Not to mention the carpets were stained in the actual room.
We changed to the Loi SuiteS Recoleta Hotel across town. Slightly more expensive, the rooms are clean, have comfortable beds, and only allow slight traffic noises to enter. Plus the manager gave us a personal tour of the entire hotel in English. So after getting settled in, we went out for a snack at a place that specializes in empanadas and pizzas, which were both excellent. From there, we went to the close-by Recoleta Cemetery, and payed our dues to the famous and wealthy Argentine elite of the past. This cemetery is made up of ex-presidents, doctors, and many military generals, to name a few.
Last night we witnessed Señor Tango, a highly overpriced and overrated Tango show. For 190 pesos each, we were served overcooked cuts of what could have been the tastiest beef ever, given absolutely horrible service, and saw the tackiest, most overdone show ever. I can say in defense of Señor Tango that the dancing, music, and singing were excellent.
Today, we decided to make reservations for Bariloche. We used a travel agent called Patagonia Travel, which realizing that they could not “sell us”, offered us the real deal. So four hours later (I have no idea how things like this work here, but everytime I have been to a travel agent here, it has been an all day process. If anyone has any recommendations, please tell me!!!) we received our vouchers for airline travel, transport, and hotel.
Tonight, we dined at the best restaurant that I have quite possibly been to in Argentina. For 105 pesos, or about $35 US, this Italian joint in Palermo (Repùblica Arabe Siria 3285), with its romantic, dimly lit atmosphere, had excellent cuisine. For this small price, the two of us drank a bottle of Malbec D.O.C, a 2002 bottle made by the Bodega Norton, each ate delicious pasta dinners, split a salad and dessert, and topped it off with a porto desert wine. Not only was this restaurant very well priced, but we had some of the best service I have received in the three times I have been to Argentina.
Now we are awaiting the morning dawn, when we will further explore this Latin country, and make our way south to the highly acclaimed San Carlos de Bariloche and the snowy ski slopes of Cerro Catedral. Buenas Noches!
Saturday, July 02, 2005
Journal Entry #13
I have had several adventures in the last week. Let me start with the first. A few days ago, I went backpacking with my dad into the upper atmospheres of our earth. Ah yes, we hiked a 13er!! Mt. James, or James peak, was a challenge, but we prevailed and conquered what we had set out to do. James is located very close to Rollinsville, so we decided to climb this peak, as we had a very late start in the day for our camping trip. After packing our bags, we went over to the Mountain People’s Coop in Ned to gather some provisions, and then we began looking for a campsite. We began driving up a fairly steep mountain road, with steep drop-offs to one side, and jagged fallen rocks to the other. These roads are always as fun as they are scary to drive, because while taking in all the beautiful scenery, you can’t help but think about the death that is so imminent. These roads are even more frightening when you are in my dad’s 1983 Toyota Tercel Hatchback, with the clearance of a mouse and the handling of a go-cart! We actually had to turn back in two separate locations due to the intensity of the road, and the lack of a four-wheel drive vehicle.
We finally found the ideal campsite and got to work setting up tents, unfolding the sleeping bags, and cooking leftovers from our lunch, while sipping on my favorite beer in the world, Fat Tire. We had to rush, though, so it was not as pleasurable as it might seem. You see, we had no flashlight, and we were battling the sun’s fall, with no time to spare. This being done, we could enjoy the alpine glow, which is almost like an extended sunset. Over the horizon, we saw an intense array of yellow, oranges, reds, and pinks, as the sun slowly faded into the night’s sky. After sitting by the fire for a while to enjoy the warmth and our food, we headed away from it to look at the stars. Living in a city, I rarely get to see them, and forget how incredible they are. Out at the foot of James, the stars were brilliant, illuminating the night sky so bright that we almost did not need the flashlight that we did not have.
The next day we got a later start than I would have liked, but nonetheless drank our hot coffee and got on our way, choosing to snack on fresh cherries and apples as we walked. The morning was pleasant, slightly chilly with the breeze of the wind, but with a forty pound bag on my back, it felt a lot warmer. So wearing doo-rags and hats, we began making our way upwards. Every now and then we got a glimpse through the trees of our surroundings. Across a valley we had spectacular views, with James far in the distance. In other directions we could see where the timberline ended, and hills turned into snow-capped peaks. Several hours later we stopped for lunch under a shady spot, and ate carrots, nuts, and delicious Stacy’s Tortillas filled with peanut butter and jelly.
After lunch, we departed upon our journey again, and soon left the trees behind us as we climbed higher in elevation. Our hike, which we estimated to be six miles long in each direction, rose some 3,000 feet, beginning at around 10,000 and ending at more than 13,000 feet above sea level. As we got higher, the views became more amazing, the wind became colder, and the vegetation became much less. The landscape was speckled in wild-flours of all colors, and in the lowlands we could see a series of water bodies, where according to elevation, glaciers melted into bodies of ice and water, and lower still, full lakes. The colors of blue that could be seen in these waters was vivid, ranging from white to light blue and blending into very dark shades, all making for a breathtaking sight. Above these lakes of ice rose jagged rocks and peaks, over looking the land below as the natives once did many years ago.
Amazingly, towards the top we saw more wildlife than at the bottom. Curious marmots began encroaching upon us to investigate our doings, and birds as small as they could be chirped all around. We also saw some type of game bird: big, plump, and tasty looking, hopping around on the trail below. If I had been stranded in the mountains, I would have pegged it with a rock immediately, and had a divine dinner!!
We finally reached the peak of the hike sometime in the afternoon. In order to get to the top, we had to cross glaciers of snow and scale 1200 feet in the last mile, practically a straight shot upwards. The view was incredible! The continental divide stretching for miles, the east to one side and the west to the other. Snow-capped mountains rolled on for miles and the view faded into the horizon. We felt so accomplished; we had finally reached our goal.
Exhausted, hungry, and thirsty, we began the return shortly after reaching the top. The wind was becoming colder, and the sun began falling off in the west with incredible speed. Out of water, we filled our bottles up with the water of a stream flowing from one of the glaciers. We knew we could boil it to purify it later, so the threat of jihrdia was not important, yet there was some debate as to whether or not it need to be purified. My dad drank some, but I am unwilling to take any chances, so waited till the water was purified. We found a new campsite and had to rush against day light once again. My dad set up the tent and I began on the dinner. That night we dined on buffalo stew, and it was delicious. Food always tastes better when you have really worked hard that day. We had a fire that night, but the wind was so intense we retired quite early to the tent. I slept fine that night, and did not wake up cold as I had the night before. However I did wake up once as our tent was rocked by gusts of wind that had to have reached up to 60 MPH. The Rockies are home to some of the strongest winds, and it was very freaky to be in these winds protected by nothing but a tent. But we survived, and now have one more story to ad to the list. That trip I will remember for years to come.
The next day we headed back to civilization, and headed straight to the Sundance Café, which is located in between Ned and Rolli. Here prices are reasonable, the staff is friendly, and the food is great, maybe only outdone by the views of Eldora and Indian Peaks in the distance.
That night, I went to see the Colorado Rockies play the Houston Astros with my dad, Levi, Evan, Benny, Donna, J Klep, Alika, and Joselyn. Rockies games are the best, cuz you are almost guaranteed a lot of action. We all bought Rock-pile seats for 4 bucks each, and headed in. Levi snuck in a bottle of 151, and we had a great time. The Astros took the early lead by hitting a grand slam, but the Rockies ended it by answering with a grand slam of their own in the later innings, leaving the final score at 6-5, Rockies. Go Rockies!!! Afterwards, we went bowling and Levi got us kicked out of the bowling alley for pouring his own liquor. I did not get a refund, and threw my bowling shoes out in the parking lot while telling the management to fuck off. If they had given me my money, I would have gone quietly, but they were assholes, so I gave them a piece of my mind. I feel bad for Jeremy and Alika, cuz they are regulars there and now may not be allowed back in, but sometimes you have to stand up for yourself. I wasn’t kissing any ass just cuz they wanted me to, I wanted my money back. So if they can’t understand that, then fuck them too!
Now I am sitting at the Miami airport. I spent a couple of days back in St. Pete, and took a train to Miami yesterday. I was supposed to be on a plane last night to Argentina, but the Amtrak was almost six hours late. It should have been here at 4:30, giving me plenty of time, but instead we got in around 10 PM. So I had to get a hotel at the Airways Inn, the cheapest thing that I could find close by the airport. What a horrible place this was. I wish I would have payed an extra 30 dollars to get a nice room at a different hotel, but what can you do? All I cared about was a room with a bed. Hopefully, I can get on a plane tonight. I guess we will find out. Man, I could just move to Miami if I wanted the Latin feel. Hasta Luego!!!
We finally found the ideal campsite and got to work setting up tents, unfolding the sleeping bags, and cooking leftovers from our lunch, while sipping on my favorite beer in the world, Fat Tire. We had to rush, though, so it was not as pleasurable as it might seem. You see, we had no flashlight, and we were battling the sun’s fall, with no time to spare. This being done, we could enjoy the alpine glow, which is almost like an extended sunset. Over the horizon, we saw an intense array of yellow, oranges, reds, and pinks, as the sun slowly faded into the night’s sky. After sitting by the fire for a while to enjoy the warmth and our food, we headed away from it to look at the stars. Living in a city, I rarely get to see them, and forget how incredible they are. Out at the foot of James, the stars were brilliant, illuminating the night sky so bright that we almost did not need the flashlight that we did not have.
The next day we got a later start than I would have liked, but nonetheless drank our hot coffee and got on our way, choosing to snack on fresh cherries and apples as we walked. The morning was pleasant, slightly chilly with the breeze of the wind, but with a forty pound bag on my back, it felt a lot warmer. So wearing doo-rags and hats, we began making our way upwards. Every now and then we got a glimpse through the trees of our surroundings. Across a valley we had spectacular views, with James far in the distance. In other directions we could see where the timberline ended, and hills turned into snow-capped peaks. Several hours later we stopped for lunch under a shady spot, and ate carrots, nuts, and delicious Stacy’s Tortillas filled with peanut butter and jelly.
After lunch, we departed upon our journey again, and soon left the trees behind us as we climbed higher in elevation. Our hike, which we estimated to be six miles long in each direction, rose some 3,000 feet, beginning at around 10,000 and ending at more than 13,000 feet above sea level. As we got higher, the views became more amazing, the wind became colder, and the vegetation became much less. The landscape was speckled in wild-flours of all colors, and in the lowlands we could see a series of water bodies, where according to elevation, glaciers melted into bodies of ice and water, and lower still, full lakes. The colors of blue that could be seen in these waters was vivid, ranging from white to light blue and blending into very dark shades, all making for a breathtaking sight. Above these lakes of ice rose jagged rocks and peaks, over looking the land below as the natives once did many years ago.
Amazingly, towards the top we saw more wildlife than at the bottom. Curious marmots began encroaching upon us to investigate our doings, and birds as small as they could be chirped all around. We also saw some type of game bird: big, plump, and tasty looking, hopping around on the trail below. If I had been stranded in the mountains, I would have pegged it with a rock immediately, and had a divine dinner!!
We finally reached the peak of the hike sometime in the afternoon. In order to get to the top, we had to cross glaciers of snow and scale 1200 feet in the last mile, practically a straight shot upwards. The view was incredible! The continental divide stretching for miles, the east to one side and the west to the other. Snow-capped mountains rolled on for miles and the view faded into the horizon. We felt so accomplished; we had finally reached our goal.
Exhausted, hungry, and thirsty, we began the return shortly after reaching the top. The wind was becoming colder, and the sun began falling off in the west with incredible speed. Out of water, we filled our bottles up with the water of a stream flowing from one of the glaciers. We knew we could boil it to purify it later, so the threat of jihrdia was not important, yet there was some debate as to whether or not it need to be purified. My dad drank some, but I am unwilling to take any chances, so waited till the water was purified. We found a new campsite and had to rush against day light once again. My dad set up the tent and I began on the dinner. That night we dined on buffalo stew, and it was delicious. Food always tastes better when you have really worked hard that day. We had a fire that night, but the wind was so intense we retired quite early to the tent. I slept fine that night, and did not wake up cold as I had the night before. However I did wake up once as our tent was rocked by gusts of wind that had to have reached up to 60 MPH. The Rockies are home to some of the strongest winds, and it was very freaky to be in these winds protected by nothing but a tent. But we survived, and now have one more story to ad to the list. That trip I will remember for years to come.
The next day we headed back to civilization, and headed straight to the Sundance Café, which is located in between Ned and Rolli. Here prices are reasonable, the staff is friendly, and the food is great, maybe only outdone by the views of Eldora and Indian Peaks in the distance.
That night, I went to see the Colorado Rockies play the Houston Astros with my dad, Levi, Evan, Benny, Donna, J Klep, Alika, and Joselyn. Rockies games are the best, cuz you are almost guaranteed a lot of action. We all bought Rock-pile seats for 4 bucks each, and headed in. Levi snuck in a bottle of 151, and we had a great time. The Astros took the early lead by hitting a grand slam, but the Rockies ended it by answering with a grand slam of their own in the later innings, leaving the final score at 6-5, Rockies. Go Rockies!!! Afterwards, we went bowling and Levi got us kicked out of the bowling alley for pouring his own liquor. I did not get a refund, and threw my bowling shoes out in the parking lot while telling the management to fuck off. If they had given me my money, I would have gone quietly, but they were assholes, so I gave them a piece of my mind. I feel bad for Jeremy and Alika, cuz they are regulars there and now may not be allowed back in, but sometimes you have to stand up for yourself. I wasn’t kissing any ass just cuz they wanted me to, I wanted my money back. So if they can’t understand that, then fuck them too!
Now I am sitting at the Miami airport. I spent a couple of days back in St. Pete, and took a train to Miami yesterday. I was supposed to be on a plane last night to Argentina, but the Amtrak was almost six hours late. It should have been here at 4:30, giving me plenty of time, but instead we got in around 10 PM. So I had to get a hotel at the Airways Inn, the cheapest thing that I could find close by the airport. What a horrible place this was. I wish I would have payed an extra 30 dollars to get a nice room at a different hotel, but what can you do? All I cared about was a room with a bed. Hopefully, I can get on a plane tonight. I guess we will find out. Man, I could just move to Miami if I wanted the Latin feel. Hasta Luego!!!
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